The world of high-end fashion is in a state of flux, and the recent menswear week in Paris has brought this into sharp focus. The industry is grappling with a new definition of luxury, and two iconic brands, Louis Vuitton and Dior, are at the heart of this transformation.
Paris, the city of lights, kicked off its menswear week with a focus on wearability and commercial appeal. LVMH, the powerhouse behind Louis Vuitton, led the charge with its signature blend of accessibility and luxury. But the real surprise came from Dior, which threw a fashion curveball on Tuesday, challenging the status quo.
This week's edition explores the changing landscape of these luxury giants. Louis Vuitton, under new leadership, is navigating a delicate balance between record sales and cultural impact. With Virgil Abloh and Kim Jones' influential tenures in the rearview, the brand is seeking a new direction. Meanwhile, Dior, under the creative direction of Jonathan Anderson, is taking a bold and unexpected turn.
LVMH's dominance at the beginning of the week was undeniable. Louis Vuitton's Monday showcase and Dior's Tuesday presentation were complemented by Kenzo and Berluti. However, the latter half of the week belongs to indie labels, Comme des Garçons, and Hermès, where Véronique Nichanian will make her final appearance. Kering's brands are notably absent or off-calendar.
Menswear has been a crucial growth vector for LVMH, especially in the shadow of its womenswear business. Virgil Abloh's tenure at Vuitton brought a youthful, gender-inclusive appeal, particularly in the US market. Similarly, Kim Jones' interpretation of Dior's couture codes resonated with a tech-savvy generation, many of whom had never embraced formal attire. This new audience remained loyal even after the initial hype faded.
But here's where the plot thickens: Luxury's golden era in China has stalled, and the US market's post-pandemic love affair with luxury was fleeting for most. Social media's evolution to TikTok and reels has given rise to a new era of consumer awareness. Gen Z is rejecting traditional logos, embracing concepts like 'old money' and 'quiet luxury'. This shift has made Loro Piana, known for its understated elegance, LVMH's hottest brand.
Louis Vuitton, the first luxury label to hit $20 billion annually and the most logo-centric, is at a crossroads. Pharrell Williams' early shows aimed to maintain the brand's hype while transitioning to a less graphic, more refined aesthetic. However, Monday's show marked a decisive break. Pharrell's use of monograms and logos was dramatically reduced, along with other bold signatures. The collection featured classic suits, car coats, and a more subdued style, moving away from the brand's iconic Americana.
The influence of Loro Piana's CEO, Damien Bertrand, who joined Louis Vuitton as deputy CEO last year, is evident. As Pietro Beccari transitions to a broader role within LVMH, Bertrand is steering the brand in a new direction. The collection has been well-received, with editors and buyers praising its sophistication. The brand's new design director, Thibo Denis, is also making waves.
Louis Vuitton's set design, a glass-walled house, reflected a fantasy of discreet wealth, mirroring the growing trend of the rich retreating into exclusive luxury bubbles. This shift in focus is intriguing but challenging for a brand as prominent as Vuitton. Benchmarking against competitors may seem like a step back for a brand of its stature.
Nevertheless, Louis Vuitton's extensive store network demands a strategy that caters to the preferences of the wealthy. Building a loyal customer base is essential in today's economic climate. The brand's move towards a more restrained aesthetic might also be a strategic response to changing values in China, where social networks have been purging content showcasing wealth since 2024, aligning with the CCP's 'common prosperity' initiative.
Jonathan Anderson's second menswear show for Dior was a stark contrast to Vuitton's. After a debut collection that played with neo-preppy and normcore themes, this season's show was a bold statement. Models donned yellow party wigs and electric-blue python shoes, blending clubbing attire with opulent Orientalist elements. Anderson's narrative explored the blurred lines between punks and aristocrats, reflecting the contemporary confusion surrounding luxury and status.
Anderson's approach acknowledges the saturation of low-key luxury and the dilution of its status symbol power. But is this shift away from excitement and towards subtlety what the industry needs? With so many designer reshuffles this year, is it not about reigniting passion for fashion?
Note: LVMH is part of an investor group with a minority stake in The Business of Fashion, ensuring editorial independence.
